FAQ's

Our U RESIN Flex UV, Standard UV, Thick UV & Liquid Glass resin systems are all a simple 1:1 ratio by volume.

This means for a total of 200ml, you will require 100ml of Part A (Resin) & 100ml of Part B (Hardener)

U RESIN Liquid Glass is a 2-part Art Epoxy Resin system with an easy 1:1 ratio by Volume.

U RESIN Liquid Glass Benefits: 
- Medium-Low Viscosity (Easy movement & flow)
- Encourages Cells/Lacing effects
- Glass-like Finish
- Very Low Bubble systems (Easily dispersed with heat)
- Extended Working Time (Up to 60mins @ 22 Degrees C)
- Excellent UV Stabilisation
- Self-Levelling Coating system (Ideal for 2-3mm pours)
- Withstand up to 90 Degrees C (Take the heat of a coffee cup)
- Low in Odour
- Low-No VOCs
- Easy to mix with Colour Pigments
- Versatile with accepting any brand Pigments

U RESIN Liquid Glass Project Types: 
- Resin Artworks
- Clear Coating (i.e. Acrylic or Alcohol Ink Paintings)
- Doming
- MDF/Wood/Tile Coasters
- Decorative Cheeseboards
- Small moulds (With Pigment added- Not Clear resin)

U RESIN UltraCoat is a 2-part Art Epoxy Resin system with an easy 1:1 ratio by Volume.

U RESIN UltraCoat Benefits: 
- High Viscosity (Little movement & flow)
- Encourages Cells/Lacing effects
- Glass-like Finish
- Low Bubble systems (Easily dispersed with heat)
- Extended Working Time (Up to 60mins @ 22 Degrees C)
- Excellent UV Stabilisation
- Self-Levelling Coating system (Ideal for 2-3mm pours)
- Withstand up to 90 Degrees C (Take the heat of a coffee cup)
- Low in Odour
- Low-No VOCs
- Easy to mix with Colour Pigments
- Versatile with accepting any brand Pigments

U RESIN UltraCoat Project Types: 
- Resin Artworks
- MDF/Wood/Tile Coasters
- Decorative Cheeseboards
- Small moulds (With Pigment added- Not Clear resin)

Click here to download a FREE .pdf on how to create Resin Art. 

It is important to calculate how much resin you will need for an artwork to avoid over mixing and wasting resin (because we know how expensive a hobby it can be)

To make it easy for you, we have 3 different Artwork Calculators to use: Circle, Square and Rectangle. 

All 3 calculators have a pre-set depth of 2mm as this is only a coating, so all you have to do is input the Length and Width to work out the total amount of resin needed. 

Dimensions need to be input in Centimetres and the Total resin amount will be in Litres. Further external conversion may be necessary if you are using other metrics.

The amount shown is the Total Amount needed. So this number will need to be divided by 2 - for your equal resin parts. 

For Example:  60cm x 80cm Rectangle = 0.960L (or 960mls)

960/2 (960 divide by 2) = 480mls 

So you will need 480mls of Part A and 480mls of Part B. 

As our Coating Systems are measured by Volume, it would be easier to round up when calculating measurements. 

For Example:  60cm x 80cm Rectangle = 0.960L (or 960mls)

Round 960mls up to 1,000mls
1,000/2 (1,000 divide by 2) = 500mls 

So you will need 500mls of Part A and 500mls of Part B. 

Our calculators have been tested and used for a number of years now, however they are only an approximate. We have included marginal waste within the total amount, however this may vary depending on the viscosity of the resin. 

For Example, if you are using U RESIN UltraCoat, we would recommend rounding up and including a minimum of 100mls extra as this is a much higher viscosity and coverage will be less than a lower viscosity resin. 

This depends on the ambient temperature as well as the temperature of the resin.
When both the resin and room temperatures are between 22- 25 degrees Celsius the working time for our art systems are between 45-60 minutes.

The cooler the resin and weather, the longer the working time you will have. The warmer the resin and weather, the shorter the working time you will have.

Ideally the temperature for both the resin itself and room/working area should be between 22 - 25 degrees Celsius.

Avoid working in high humidity as this can affect the finish of your project.

Our Artwork resins have a Pot Life of 45-60minutes depending on the temperature of both the Resin and the Room. (Refer to "What is the pot life of the Art Resins?") 

If the outside/room temperatures are higher than the recommended 22-25degrees, then this will also mean the temperature of the resins are higher and will lead to the resin having an accelerated curing time.
I.E. If the temperature is 30degrees, you may find you only have a working time of 30-45minutes.  

Overheating your resin whilst working with it, can also increase the cure time and lower the working time of the resin. It is important to keep your heating element (heat gun, butane torch, etc.) at least 20cm away from the resin surface and ensure you keep moving the heat source, rather than heating in one spot for too long. 

Too much pigment (Excess of 10% colour to resin) in your resin will also lead to the resin speeding up as this is changing the natural chemistry of the resin. 

Finally, high volumes of resin can also cause the resin to cure faster. The more volume in the cup, the more of an exothermic reaction is created which will lead to the resin going off faster. To prolong this process, it is best to seperate the mixed resin into smaller cups (with your pigments, etc.) and not allow large volumes in one particular container. 

All of our resin systems have varying temperature resistances. All temperature resistances are based off the cured and post cured, CLEAR epoxy resin. It is also based on a minimum pour depth. Meaning if the resin is poured less than the minimum depth, it can result in being softer, which would have a lower heat tolerance.

Please note that temperature resistances will vary when additives or colours are used, as this changes the natural chemistry of the resin.

Below are the temperature resistances of each system:

- U RESIN Flex UV can withstand up to 50 Degrees Celsius

- U RESIN Standard UV can withstand up to 80 Degrees Celsius

- U RESIN Liquid Glass can withstand up to 90 Degrees Celsius

- U RESIN Cast can withstand up to 110 Degrees Celsius

- U RESIN OceanCast can withstand up to 110 Degrees Celsius

Our Coating systems (U RESIN Flex UV, Standard UV & Liquid Glass) are based on a minimum depth of 2mm.
Our U RESIN Cast system is based on a minimum depth of 10mm.
Our U RESIN OceanCast system is based on a minimum depth of 50mm.

If the resin is being used for something that contains heat, (for example U RESIN Liquid Glass is being used on a coaster) if a coffee cup were to sit on the coaster and it softens, this is not to worry. Once the heat source has been removed, the resin will return back to its original hardness.

Definitely Not!! Water will not help and only ruin your art. Water-based products are also no good for resin art as water and resin will repel and cause issues when trying to cure. 

We recommend you don't.
Our Systems have been primarily designed for art purposes and do not have the correct properties for using as a kitchen surface/ high wearing surface top. 
If you are creating coffee tables, or more decorative tables/ display pieces with low wear and use, then our systems will be fine to use. As they are designed for Art.

We would recommend the U RESIN Liquid Glass system for decorative table tops. 

If you are trying to create cells or lacing in your resin artwork, we have described the best techniques on how to create them.

You can read more about creating cells and lacing here: https://www.uresin.com.au/blog/how-to-create-cells-lacing/

Absolutely! Whilst a new layer can be done sooner, for the best surface and adhesion, we recommend letting the initial resin layer to cure for 24 hours before pouring additional layer.
If you are leaving the piece for longer than 24 hours, we recommend you sand the artwork first, to ensure better adhesion to the new layer.
The possibilities are endless, as are the layers! 

This yellowing is due to oxidisation of the Hardener (similar to a banana). The more air/moisture it is exposed too whilst unmixed, the more noticeable the yellowing will appear. The longer the Part B sits or is left open the quicker the yellowing will occur.

Yellowing is generally more noticeable in large volumes (i.e. will be more noticeable in a 5L bottle as opposed to a 500ml bottle which less volume)

The Resin is still perfectly fine to use, and you will notice that once it is mixed together with the Part A, the colour will dilute and be clear to use with pigments, etc. 

To delay the yellowing, make sure the resin is away from direct sunlight and kept in a dark dry and preferably cool area, with the lids tightly sealed. 

Artworks can become dimpled or rippled from a number of factors, including but not limited to the following: 

1. Type of resin - some resins are far too thin/ low viscosity and when applied to a surface will not cover the surface enough. 

2. Unmixed/ Uncured resin - When the proper reaction has not occurred or the resin is not properly mixed this can cause issues in the art.

3. Using a heat gun or flame too close or for too long to the resin can also cause ripples and dimples.

4. Not enough resin - If a board is 40cm and requires 300ml of resin, we generally recommend mixing and applying more and allowing the excess to drip off. By applying less than necessary and trying to stretch it, can cause the resin to dimple. 

5. Contamination - If you are using alcohol inks, oil paints, or there is an oily residue on the surface and it is not completely dry or cleaned prior to applying resin, this can also dimple as the resin will repel. 

Resin can remain sticky or tacky for a couple of reasons:

1. Bad mixing - If your resin was not mixed thoroughly for 2-3 minutes, scrapping the sides and bottom of the container, there can be unmixed resin on your piece.

2. Incorrect ratios - If you have too much resin or hardener, there is excess of one part that has nothing to bond too, which will leave tackiness on the art surface. 

3. Contamination - If there is something existing on the surface or something that is mixed into the resin that acts as a repellent, this can cause the resin to stay uncured and tacky. 

Watch how we fix Tacky resin here.

Yes, you can add as many pigments to your artwork as possible. 

We generally stick to a simple rule of 5 colours when creating an artwork: Black or White - Light, Medium, Dark Shade and a Metallic. 

Colour pigments can be mixed together to create a new shade of colour, turn a transparent pigment opaque or turn a pigment metallic/ shimmery. 

Whilst you can use many colours, we recommend only using 2-5% colour pigment to resin ratio to ensure the best effect and finish.

We develop, formulate, blend and pack a large range of pigments designed for Epoxy Resins. 

We have a range of pigments that do not contain an epoxy base/ carrier like most other brands and offer excellent concentration and value for money. 

To see our Colour Charts, click here.

Or head over to our 'SHOP' to purchase from our pigment ranges.

Not only do we formulate and manufacture our own range of pigments specifically designed for resin use, but we also use and support other brand pigments as well. 

You can find the full Art Tree Creations: Epoxy Pastes, Pearl Powders, Metal Powders, Metallic Pastes, Neon/Glow in the Dark Powders, Fine Glitters & Transparent Dyes available on our website. 

You can also see all of these colours displayed in our Colour Charts here.

Previously you would have found Artisue Creative Paste Pigments and Powders, however have since been discontinued.

Both the Part A Resin and Part B Hardener have different densities which means that both parts have different weights.

For our 'Art Resins', the Part B is heavier than the Part A resin.
For our 'Casting Resins' the Part A is heavier than the Part B Hardener.

When measuring out by volume, depending on the ambient temperature (hotter or colder), this changes the specific gravity of the material which can affect the measurements being used. Hence why it isn’t unusual to have some of one component leftover.

However, Please Note: By adding more hardener to the system will not 'kick' or speed up the epoxy. By altering the ratios, it can cause excessive blushing. negatively affect the cured strengths and curing times and potentially ruin the finish over time.

If you are going to use Alcohol Inks in or with epoxy resin we recommend testing in small amounts/ samples first.

As alcohol inks are solvent-based they can react very differently in each resin system. Every epoxy resin system is formulated differently and contain varying ingredients, so no 2 resins will provide the exact same results each time. 

By adding Alcohol Inks into resin, will cause the resin to become highly flammable if exposed to excessive heat or a direct flame. 
As alcohol inks are not lightfast colourants, they will generally always fade, bleed or change colour. In some instances this is straight away, and for others it can be days, months or years. There is no specific timeframe of when this will occur. 
We would recommend the use of the Epoxy pastes in minute amounts to create a transparent effect for the best results. 

For the best information on how to finish a Cheeseboard, please see our Blog Post here: https://www.uresin.com.au/blog/how-to-finish-your-cheeseboards/

We have a helpful blog post on the various ways of how to remove resin drips. Read Blog here.

Watch our YouTube video on how we remove resin drips here: https://youtu.be/RHsIi2rI4Wk

Often choosing colours is the most difficult decision in the Resin Art-Making process. When thinking about colours, there are a few things that should be taken into consideration: 

• What sort of effects are you trying to create
• What type of colours do you want to use
• What do you prefer using

If you are trying to create cells and lacing, this is an effect commonly created when using Pigment Pastes. Pastes are generally heavier, so when applied on a board and heat is added, this separates the pigments and enhances the cell creation. 

Whilst cells can also be created with powders, it is much harder to do so and can take some practice getting used to a particular working style. 

Some pigments and powders are transparent, opaque, lustre, shimmery, neon, glow in the dark, or metallic. These will all have different finishes in your artwork. These can all be mixed and matched between the finishes to create your ideal project.

What do you prefer using? Some artists like pastes best as they are highly pigmented so a little goes a long way, making them the most cost effective to use. Some prefer powders and the shimmery finish they provide. Others like dyes, tints and inks that create a transparent/ see-through effect making the resin appear more like glass. 

At the end of the day, resin art is all about experimenting and creativity! Try a little bit of everything and see what works best for you, as art is subjective, much like the creative process!

If you are creating Resin Art and using MDF boards, we always recommend priming your boards first. 

Using any sort of White primer paint, household ceiling paint, gesso, acrylic paint or even spray paint. 

By applying 1-2 coats of paint on your MDF first will enhance the colours of the resin once applied as well as give the resin better adhesion to the MDF and avoid the resin seeping into the MDF. 

Priming can be done in any colour, it isn't solely specific to white. If you are creating a Blue themed Resin Artwork, you may want to paint the board in shades of blue. It is entirely up to you. 

The range of MDF Art Boards available on our website are made by Art Boards Australia (Division of Art Tree Creations) and are all double primed in white. So you can get straight into creating your resin artwork.

If you are creating resin cheeseboards, you may think that the cheeseboard will need to be primed, similarly to an MDF board.

Whilst a cheeseboard can be primed first, it isn't necessary to do so. However, if you are purchasing cheeseboards from a Mass-Producing business (K-Mart, Target, Etc.) we would highly recommend sanding the board first. 

This is because larger retailers are selling the boards as an end user item, so they are pre-sealed and conditioned in a form of wax or oil coating. Such coating can react with the resin if it is not removed and can lead to a patchy or bubbly resin finish. 

By sanding the surface, you are removing that oil layer and giving the timber a rougher finish which the resin will adhere better too. 

The cheeseboard range available on our website are all hand made around Australia, using Australian timbers and are all sanded back with no pre-existing coatings so you can resin straight on our cheeseboards.

Our U RESIN Cast & OceanCast resin systems are all a simple 2:1 ratio by volume.

This means for a total of 300ml, you will require 200ml of Part A (Resin) & 100ml of Part B (Hardener)

Once you have used our Resin Calculators to work out how much resin you will require for your project, the easiest way to be able to calculate a 2:1 ratio is by dividing the total resin amount by 3.

For Example: You require 300mls of Resin for your project.

300/3 = 100(mls) - This is your Part B amount
100x2 = 200(mls) - This is your Part A amount
            = 300(mls) - Total amount of resin required.

If you are working with odd amounts, we recommend rounding up.

For Example: You require 400mls of Resin for your project.

400/3 = 133.3333* - This would make for an awkward measurement, and hard to be accurate in your measuring jug when measuring by volume.

In this instance, we would recommend using 450mls for your project instead.

450/3 = 150(mls) - This is your Part B amount
150x2 = 300(mls) - This is your Part A amount
            = 450(mls) - Total amount of resin required.

Yes, Absolutely! 

We have 2 main epoxy resin systems designed for these purposes: U RESIN Cast & U RESIN OceanCast.

Both offer slightly different properties, however work in the same way. You can find the full information on both in the description section of each product in the 'Shop' 

We recommend purchasing our River Table e-Book for a step-by-step process for creating a table along with important guides and troubleshooting. 

U RESIN Cast is a 2-part Casting Epoxy Resin system with an easy 2:1 ratio by Volume.

U RESIN Cast Benefits: 
- Very Low Viscosity (Easy flow)
- Glass-like Finish
- Very Low Bubble systems (Easily dispersed with heat)
- Working Time (Up to 50mins @ 22 Degrees C)
- Fast Curing (De-mould within 4-6 hours)
- Excellent UV Stabilisation
- Crystal Clear (Part A & B)
- Self-Levelling
- Shallow Casting system (Ideal for 5-20mm pours)
- Withstand up to 110 Degrees C (Take the heat of a coffee cup)
- Low in Odour
- Low-No VOCs
- Easy to mix with Colour Pigments
- Versatile with accepting any brand Pigments

U RESIN Cast Project Types: 
- Small Silicone Moulds (Jewellery, Keyrings, etc.)
- Large Silicone Moulds (Coasters, Trays, etc.) 
- Embedding (Flower Preservation)
- River Boards
- River Tables

Click here to download your FREE .pdf on how to use our U RESIN Cast system. 

U RESIN OceanCast is a 2-part Deep Casting Epoxy Resin system with an easy 2:1 ratio by Volume.

U RESIN OceanCast Benefits: 
- Very Low Viscosity (Easy flow)
- Glass-like Finish
- Very Low Bubble systems (Easily dispersed with heat)
- Working Time (Up to 280mins @ 22 Degrees C)
- Slow Curing 
- Low exotherm
- Excellent UV Stabilisation
- Crystal Clear (Part A & B)
- Self-Levelling
- Deep Casting system (Ideal for 50-100mm pours)
- Withstand up to 110 Degrees C (Take the heat of a coffee cup)
- Low in Odour
- Low-No VOCs
- Easy to mix with Colour Pigments
- Versatile with accepting any brand Pigments

U RESIN OceanCast Project Types: 
- Embedding (Flower Preservation)
- River Boards
- River Tables

Click here to download your FREE .pdf on how to use our U RESIN OceanCast system. 

It is important to calculate how much resin you will need for a river table or casting project to avoid under mixing or wasting excess resin.

To make it easy for you, we have 2 different Casting Calculators to use: Circle and Rectangle. 

These calculators have no pre-set measurements so you can easily input the length, width and depth of your project to calculate the total amount of resin needed. 

Dimensions need to be input in Centimetres and the Total resin amount will be in Litres. (Further external conversion may be necessary if you are using other metrics.)

The amount shown is the Total Amount needed. So this number will need to be divided to follow the 2:1 ratio of the casting resins. To work out a 2:1 ratio, see our previous question "How do I calculate a 2:1 ratio?"

As our Casting Systems are measured by Volume, it would be easiest to round up when calculating measurements. 

Our calculators have been tested and used for a number of years now, however they are only an approximate. We have included marginal waste within the total amount, but this may vary depending on the viscosity of the resin. 

When calculating river tables, it is possible to underestimate as the resin will seep into cracks or crevices that may not be visible to the naked eye. This is important to keep in mind, to avoid the resin dropping down. 

When working in moulds and trying to calculate the amount of resin you need, fill the mould up with water then tip the water into a measuring jug or cup to weigh. The amount of water that fills the mould should equate to the amount of resin needed to fill the mould. 

If using this method, make sure you empty the mould entirely and the mould is thoroughly dry before working with resin.

Our U RESIN Cast has a pot life of 50 minutes at ambient temperature. It is a very fast curing system with a High Exothermic temperature.

Our U RESIN OceanCast has a pot life of 280 minutes at ambient temperature. It is a very slow curing system with a medium-low Exothermic temperature.

You can find more information for each product under their description in the 'shop' section.

This depends on the ambient temperature, resin temperature, type of resin and volume of resin that is poured. 

Generally for our Art Resins, after the pot life is finished, it will be touch dry in 24 hours. 

For our U RESIN Cast, after the pot life is finished, it is generally touch dry in 8 hours. 

U RESIN OceanCast, after the pot life is finished, is generally touch dry in 48 hours. 

Again, temperature and volume dependent for each system. Overall the warmer the room and resin, the faster the cure time. The cooler the resin and room, the slower the cure time. 

All curing times are a generalisation only and will vary with every project size and type.

A full/post cure is 30 days after becoming touch dry. However, this is based on the clear resin itself and an average temperature of 22-25 degrees celsius. If it is colder (Winter time) resin will take longer to fully cure and we would recommend upwards of 30 days if you are creating items to sell. 

Our U RESIN Cast is designed to be poured anywhere between 5 - 20mm per layer. Additional layers can be poured once initial layer has cured to build up to the desired thickness. 

Our U RESIN OceanCast is designed unlike any other system available in Australia. It can be poured anywhere between 50 - 100mm per layer. We recommend that you do not pour less than 50mm deep, due to the very slow cure time. 

The thicker you pour either resin, the less volume we recommend pouring. The thicker the pour, the more heat is generated during the exothermic reaction which can lead to curing issues (i.e. Cracking, Smoking, Foaming, etc.)

You can find more information on each product in their description in the 'Shop' section.

Yes, absolutely. 

Ensure your resin has cured completely for a minimum of 48 hours before sanding. 

Any sandpaper grit will work with resin. By re-coating the resin, it will remove any visible scratches made to the bottom layer. 

If you are working with Flowers we always recommend drying them first to avoid a resin reaction.

We have a blog post on how to dry flowers that you can read here.

If you are working with Timber we recommend always purchasing your slabs from a reputable and knowledgeable supplier of timber that will pre-dry slabs for years before sale. 

If you have purchased timber that is still green we recommend taking it to a kiln drier. You can also create a hot room/box for the timber slabs to rest in with a heater fan.
This will take a significant amount of time which will vary depending on the thickness of the slab and how green/ dry the slab is when purchased. 

Moisture readers can be purchased online which are a handy tool to have if you are doing frequent resin and timber projects. This will measure the percentage 

Regardless of if the timber is dry, we would always recommend sealing the timber slab first. You can read more under "Should I seal my timber first?" 

For this, we would recommend (generally) 2-3 coats of our U COAT Sealer. However, depending how porous the timber is, may require more coats.

If you are working with any sort of Timber slab, even if you purchase it "dry" we would always recommend sealing the timber before pouring resin. 

We have a blog post on why you should seal timber, which you can read here.

Even if you are purchasing “dry timber” it is very likely especially in such a thick slab timber (for example: 80-100mm), for moisture to still be present, even if it is not throughout the entire slab. Resin being so thin, will seep into the timber and will react with any moisture that is present.

When resin reacts with moisture it can cause foaming, bubbling, cracking and overheating.

Because the resin is reacting with moisture, this will increase the exothermic reaction on top of such a large volume of resin which in turn shortens the curing time of the resin. This is important to know if you have clamped or screwed your timber down to avoid further issues.

See "Why did my casting resin project crack?" for more.

Yes. Any of the pigments, powders or pastes available on our website can be added into our U RESIN Cast or OceanCast systems to create a river table or other casted object. 

See 'How much pigments should I add?' for more information. 

When creating a river table or other casted objects, we recommend adding no more than 10% colour to resin.
Ideally, 2-5% of colour to resin for the best results.

The more pigment that is added the more concentrated the colour will be. 

Any more pigment in the resin can cause the resin to be uncured or soften the resin. 

If you are using silicone moulds (i.e. Jewellery, coasters, etc.) and want a clear resin pour, you are best to use our U RESIN Cast system.
This system has been designed to be poured between 5-20mm thickness with excellent clarity.

Colours, flowers, glitter and more can also be added to these pours. 

Our U RESIN Standard UV, Liquid Glass & UltraCoat have all been designed as flat surface artwork coating systems (no more than 2mm per layer) and will become cloudy, the thicker the (clear) pour. 

Find our U RESIN Cast used in moulds on our Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbIJ7BwoSuSh0rDcs3mZVRQ

Epoxy resin generally does not stick to polypropylene, polyethylene & Silicone. 

These are the best materials to create a mould from, however it would depend on the overall size. 

Melamine or ply are also options for large moulds, however you will need a good form of release. "Sheathing tape" is a good option to line the moulds with, however we would still recommend the use of a release agent. 

A silicone spray like: EaseRelease or a release wax will work as good agents to assist in de-moulding. 

Depending on what material your mould is made from, most can be re-used when taken care of. 

Silicone Moulds - Silicone moulds can easily be reused countless times as long as heat sources and solvents are kept away from the silicone surface. Both these things will deteriorate the silicone, meaning you will get less uses out of them. By using a Silicone Mould Release Spray, before pouring your items will also help prolong the life of the mould for more uses.

See our Blog Post on how to care for Silicone Moulds here. 

HDPE - High Density Polyethylene is a great mould option, especially for larger casting projects.  It is a very versatile thermoplastic that will provide both support and a good quality finish to your project. Again this can be reused if taken care of, and a Silicone Spray would be recommended for prolonged use. 

Melamine - Melamine is a great and more cost effective mould substrate for large projects like river tables. However, these can be a little harder to reuse, as if it is not properly conditioned beforehand the resin can stick, and make result in mould breakage. A Silicone Wax or Mould Spray is highly recommended as well as a sheathing tape on the base and sides for better mould release. 

Here is a video on how we would de-mould a resin piece using a Silicone Mould.

It is very important to avoid over stretching or pulling the resin as this will lead to the silicone deteriorating and will be less effective when using.

Both our U RESIN Cast and U RESIN OceanCast can be turned on a lathe once they have fully cured. 

We would recommend either our U RESIN Cast or U RESIN OceanCast for casting/ deep pours depending on how you are wanting to create your project. 

U RESIN Cast  www.uresin.com.au/product-category/u-resin-cast/ - This is suitable for casting 5 - 20mm in 1 pour, per layer (so 2-3 layers would be necessary for your projects). It is a fast curing & High exothermic system meaning you would be able to re-pour another layer 4-6 hours after the gel (temperature dependent). 

U RESIN OceanCast www.uresin.com.au/product-category/u-resin-oceancast/ - This is suitable for casting 50 - 100mm in 1 pour, per layer. It is possible to pour 35-50mm thick, however as it is a very slow curing & Low exotherm system it would mean your de-mould time would be longer than normal. However, this would be the best option if you are wanting to do a single layer pour. 

If the U RESIN Cast is poured deeper than the 20mm depth limit, it will create a very high exothermic reaction. 

U RESIN Cast has a naturally high exothermic temperature when poured between 5 - 20mm. When poured over this amount, it will overheat the resin which will cause the resin to smoke and potentially crack, among other issues. 

If the resin cracks during your pour, it is not all bad news! It can be patched by re-pouring resin into the cracks/gaps. 

By pouring below the recommended minimum depth for U RESIN Cast can cause the resin to appear webbed or mirky looking. The resin needs to reach the minimum depth to allow the exothermic reaction to occur and provide a glossy-like finish. 
If you are wanting to pour below the 5mm minimum depth, we recommend you use our U RESIN Liquid Glass system instead. 

By pouring below the recommended minimum depth for U RESIN OceanCast, this will slow down the cure time much further. All information on the product is based on a 50mm pour. It is a naturally slow curing system with a low exothermic reaction, so by pouring below the recommended amount can increase the cure time by more than 48 hours. (Results and cure times will significantly vary depending on the total weight and volume of the pour).

Micro bubbles are one of those quite difficult things to deal with in projects that can sometimes be unavoidable. Generally speaking, there are a few reasons why they occur:

1. Moisture Contaminated Resin - If you are working with 'old' resin (perhaps that has been used/ opened multiple times before) this will mean, over time moisture has entered the containers which would have reacted with the resin. The older the resin, the higher chances of micro bubbles forming.

2. Unsealed Surfaces - This is a huge one, as most timber surfaces will need some kind of sealer to ensure the resin does not react with any moisture or contaminants. See our Blog Post for more info.

3. Additives/ Embedding - Items like coffee beans, flowers, shells or similar, if not properly

4. Excess Heating - When working with heat, it is very important to keep the heat source moving and not stay in one spot. By giving excess heat to one spot, will leave to more bubbles forming as it is accelerating the curing process of the resin.

Bubbles will naturally occur during the mixing process. If you are using a drill for a large volume pour, this will draw more air into the resin and cause more bubbles to form. 

Once you begin to pour your resin, bubbles will begin to automatically disperse as the U RESIN Cast & OceanCast are very low viscosity systems, with excellent bubble dispersing properties. 

We recommend you avoid excess heating of the resin, as this will increase the resin temperature and can cause a faster exothermic reaction. Pour you resin, and allow the resin to flow and self-level and disperse bubbles on its own. After 5-10mins with a butane torch (or similar) very lightly move the heat over the resin from approx. 10cm away and hover over the entire surface. Keep the heat moving and avoid staying in one spot as this can scorch the resin and cause it to smoke. 

If you have mixed and poured your resin and notice it is smoking, this can be caused from too much heat being added to the resin, temperature or by the volume being poured. 

By constantly applying heat to the resin to remove bubbles, will cause the resin to heat up faster than normal and cause smoke. 

When the temperature is too warm, it can also lead to the exothermic reaction kicking off and causing the resin to smoke. This isn't uncommon but can be avoided by pouring a smaller depth or cooling your resin temperatures first and ideally working in a temperature controlled room. When the room temperature is high, it is likely that your resin temperature is also high.

If you have poured a substantial volume of resin and/or poured past the recommended maximum depth, this can cause the resin to create a high exothermic reaction, which can cause the resin to smoke.
The more volume, the more heat will be generated. 

Whilst we give a recommendations of pour depth, it is entirely project, temperature and volume dependent. 

It is very possible for the U RESIN Cast or U RESIN OceanCast to crack. This is generally caused by the exothermic reaction (high volume pours) or if the resin was restricted/braced in some way. 

If you do have cracks in your pour, by gently separating the cracks further with a flat head screwdriver or similar, and re-pouring resin into the cracks, will allow the cracks to fill and cover any significant difference between the pours. 

The main cause to cracking is when the resin is creating the exothermic reaction, it tends to want to contract inwards or shrink.

If clamps/screws are not then released from the timber (in a river table project) the only way for the resin to release such pressure is by then cracking the material.

Had the clamps/screws of been removed/released prior to the resin curing, it is likely that the pour would not have cracked as the resin could have released the tension built up from the exotherm.

All man-made plastics shrink and the larger the volume pour the greater the shrinkage.

If you are pouring on an art board or just trying to create a small barrier to avoid resin spillage, masking tape can be used. Depending on the area you are trying to dam, we would generally recommend 2-3 layers of tape in a criss cross pattern to create the best barrier and support for the resin. 

If you are pouring in a large mould, creating river tables and are trying to find a non-sticking tape, we would recommend the use of a sheathing tape, similar to the American brand; Tuck Tape. 

It is very important to ensure your resin systems are kept in a cool and dry area. Do not allow for direct sunlight as this will cause the resin to age and yellow. 
The Casting resin systems are extremely moisture sensitive, in particular the Part B - Hardeners.
It is very important to make sure your lids are tightly sealed in between uses and keep the cap and bottle clean to avoid any possible moisture contamination.